Colors of tradition: Green and white or Red, White and Blue?

Clothing as a cultural identity may be something we take for granted in America– the land of freedom, opportunity, and choice. Here, it is common for us to categorize our fellow Americans by the way they choose to dress (punk, alternative, preppy, conservative) and likely that we identify ourselves much the same way. These identities, which could be loosely defined as signals of totemic distinction, help to define the sub-cultures to which Americans belong.

The Hmong culture has a similar structure to their traditional forms of dress, but it is less about choice and is instead pre-determined by their birth location and family origins. According to Lynch, the two primary regional groups are White Hmong and Green Hmong (shown in the images at the left and lower left, respectively). Rather than revealing what clothing preferences the wearer favors, the traditional clothing of these two groups reveals an unwritten social code related to religion, language, and the manner in which the wearer's relationship with the viewer will be hindered or limited (Lynch, 1995).

While this was the traditional purpose and function of the clothing styles, it changed significantly when the Laos Hmong fled their homeland and took residence in other locations such as the United States. Lynch's research, which focuses on the New Year's traditions of St. Paul (Minnesota) Hmong, reveals that the clothing has taken new meaning in its diasporic context. First, it is no longer worn as everyday clothing, but is only donned during special celebrations. Secondly, Hmong teenagers, who are particularly susceptible to ethnic discrimination, are finding unique and aesthetic ways of adapting the traditional clothing to their personal (or 'American') tastes and preferences. While the clothing is still created by the older generation, they are integrating American fabrics and other influences like "sequins, lace, and American trim" (Lynch, 1995, p. 264).

Reasons for this cultural authentication could be varied, but Lynch supports that in Laos, Hmong people preferred a quick and easy manner of relating their sub-group identity to others; however, when they became targets of discrimination, they needed to focus on the ties that bound verses those things which once separated them. For this reason, we start to see cultural artifacts that blend not only Hmong and American styles, but White and Green Hmong elements as well (Lynch, 1995). Although the white/green association will always be there (at least with elders), it is less important for the younger generation than the overarching nature of being Hmong in a country where that is an ethnic minority.

Two interesting points of interest that came up during this reading were a) the need for immersion in and interaction with a culture in order to fully understand it and b) the ability of an outside observer to see beyond obvious trends and reveal the reasons for or implications of a cultural adaptation that has been identified. While the first is obvious, the second seems to be a point of moderate contention, especially when discussed in class this afternoon. However, the ability of an outsider to see more than insiders is a direct result of being immersed within a different culture while still remaining objective and separate. 

Other questions that this topic raises include the consideration of older generations and the results of these modifications on future generations and the Hmong culture in general. It may be worthwhile to examine how the elders feel about the teenagers combining the sub-group styles of dress as well as integrating American flair. Also, it would be interesting to see if the totemic differences will disappear completely or will they resurface when the Hmong population feels less marginalized in their new environments. Whatever the case, a follow-up to Lynch's research would be appropriate. This could provide some additional insight as well as clarify the correctness of the trends and analysis originally posited by her research.

References:
1. Image source: http://www.galenfrysinger.com/hmong_costumes.htm
2. Lynch, A. (1995). Hmong American New Year's dress: The display of ethnicity. In Joanne Eicher (Ed.), Dress and ethnicity, Washington, DC: Berg, 255-267.